I write about the small and significant moments that shape our lives — family stories, friendships, personal observations, lessons learned, and the quiet experiences that often matter most. This site is a place to reflect on life with curiosity, gratitude, and honesty: the challenges that strengthen us, the people who influence us, and the everyday moments that deserve to be remembered. From cycling journeys and travel to conversations with grandchildren and reflections on resilience, I hope these writings encourage thoughtful living and deeper connection. My mission is to build a family legacy of strength, generosity, and steady & trustworthy leadership — embracing physical challenges, growing continuously, and encouraging my family and community to rise to theirs. I believe a meaningful life is built not only through accomplishments, but through consistency, kindness, endurance, and the example we leave for others.
Herds of wild horses have been known to attack people–would this herd be one those? I was alone in the Pyrenees mountains, quite out of my comfort zone. I had been hiking and climbing upwards for well over two hours to reach this remote spot, at about 2,500 meters of elevation, high above the tree level and I had no cellular phone coverage. I had been worried in places about falling and breaking something, but I didn’t imagine this situation and feeling this vulnerable and alone. I didn’t even mean to come this far. About a half hour earlier I had planned to turn around but, as I kept looking at a waterfall in the distance, about a hundred meters high, flowing over a ridge, I had the urge to keep on going. The view would be great from up there I thought.
The trail was dizzingly steep and slippery along the falls. I questioned my sanity in continuing. But as I crested the ridge, I saw the horses maybe twenty of them, about fifty metres away, on a ridge just slightly above where I was. They were not at all as delighted to see me as I was to see them. As I took photos, the horses glanced at me nervously, looked away, glance again, and stirred about nervously.
I was trembling with excitement and maybe a bit of fear as tried to get some photos of these beasts, with the mountain peaks behind them. I decided to put on a long telephoto lens so I could get some close ups of individual animals without upsetting them more. Unfortunately as I started changing lens, removing the current lens, one of the horses, a male and the most aggressive, started galloping back and forth in front of the herd. He had a shiny black coat and a shockingly long and messy mane that waved and flapped in the air as he moved. Blacky was the name of a neighbour’s horse when I was a kid, and so to me, this too was Blacky. He snorted, lay down on the ground and, while making grunting noises, almost as if laughing, he rolled back and forth on his back, with his feet in the air! Blacky got back upright, and bucked, causing a cloud of dust to explode off of his coat and mane…..I have never seen anything like this. It was so startling and comical, that I forgot I was holding a camera. If only I had video recorded it!
A raptor of some sort, maybe an eagle, screeched high above me. I turned and looked up and wondered if my telephoto lens would be adequate enough to photograph it? Suddenly I was aware of the sound of horse hooves racing toward me. As soon as I had looked away, four of the horses were charging, lead by Blacky. I put my camera down and turned to face them. They slowed to a stop just ten meters or so away. Blacky and the others moved forward a couple of steps. Waited. Then moved forward again. They then slowly moseyed up toward me. Blacky was looking at me carefully. His eyes dark. I was awestruck by how tall and massive the creature was. He was confident and intelligent in his bearing. I reached up with my hand to rub his forehead, wondering if he could sense my fear that he was going to bite me. His face was coated with flies. That’s why he was rolling in the dust I supposed, to get the flies off. I rubbed his forehead. As Blacky and his two buddies got comfortable with me, the whole herd came and surrounded me. I felt as if I had been adopted by the herd and, in my mind, I was being carried away with them.
There was a foal in the group that was black, so maybe he was the offspring of Blacky. He too was spunky and fearless. The foal, as I was told a few days later, was probably the reason why the herd was so aggressive toward me at first, wanting to protect this little guy. But at this moment, he didn’t see me as a threat at all. He was as mischievous as any bold little boy or girl. Whenever I had my back turned he would bite and pull at my camera bag, as if he was playing a trick on me…or because he could smell the crumbs and wrapper of an oatmeal energy bar I had eaten earlier?
2020: No Parlement Hill celebrations for us nor for that matter any other Canada Day party or celebration. Still it was a day off and so we did what we could to celebrate being Canadian: a hike in the forest (Gatineau Park) and canoeing.
We met up with “In-Law Debbie” for the hike to Penquin Lookout.
It’s a seven or so kilometre hike that is complemented by birdsong, smells of wild roses and ferns, and sites of interesting nature’s puzzles.
This maple grew up around another tree, embracing it perhaps in the way we become entwined with special people in our lives, and when they are gone, their past influence shapes who we are.
Other trees endure or eventually succumb to relentless forces…
This rock has deep line scars across its face by glaciers as if it were merely a soap bar where children carve random lines through it with their nails.
In the photo below, there’s two lighter rocks that resemble eyes, and a fissure in the rock that makes the rock look very unhappy…
Debbie and Deanna approaching the first major climb…At Penguin Lookout. Moments of reflection of love and of what could have been…
From hiking, we went canoing at Camp Dubois….here we’re canoing along the Gatineau River above the Chelsea Dam.
Kelly’s telling her brother’s story about living in northern Ontario: “‘Yeah,’ he said. ‘She screamed bloody hell! She steps into the bedroom and sees this black bear with its massive head sticking through the bedroom window-screen just over the bed. Its nose right over my bald head! I can feel its breath move the few hairs left up there!'”
We’re listening like enthralled school children. We’re so engagned we feel the bear’s breath in our own hair.
It’s late in the evening but after much red wine and many good stories, no one is leaving the warmth and buzz around the towering fireplace in the central lobby of Le Château Montebello. There’s the smell of wood smoke and the sound of a piano man banging out the requests from the crowd, over the din of singing, laughter and chatter.
This a photo of the central lobby in early morning. In the evenings, guests are drawn from their chambers to the warmth of the fireplace and to enjoy people watching and socializing while drinking wine or cocktails. There three levels of mezzanines for talking, playing card or board games, or just drinking and partying. It’s the inside of the world’s largest log cabin.
Morning walk outside Le Chàteau Montebello after over-night snow fall.
But back to stories…on first mezzainine level there’s thousands of photos, mostly black and white and they’re old. They tell stories of famous people who have visited the hotel over the years. There’re several photos from the 1981 G7 Summit that tell of the political tensions of the time, with world leaders like Pierre Trudeau, Ronald Reagan, Margaret Thatcher, François Mitterrand, and others. There are other even older stories too told by the photos of unknown young people, who have all likely passed away, dressed in the baggey but classy golfing, skiing, skating and other sporting gear of the 1930s and 40s. These are stories woven with themes of youthful hope and energy of other eras long past.
Fish Yogurt
The buffet breakfast at the hotel covers a city block! Well okay not nearly that expansive but there is an incredible amount of breakfast choices: of fruits, juices, breads, paisteries, crepes, cheeses, omelettes, bacon, ham, and all manners of items. Bright arrays of colours and yummy smells of bacon and eggs and other tempting goodies. I’m hovering here and there from one section of offerings to another, like a bee hovering about flowers in a garden, loading up my plate and wondering how many more trips between buffet and my table will be needed.
Some of the items are unknown or odd to me. Thankfully there are labels for each item–in French. Here’s one that’s labeled “Fish Yogurt?!!” It’s in a glass. It looks like some sort of goop with a salmon-sort of colour. My stomach churns for moment until my brain catches up–that while “pêche” is “fishing” in French, it is also “peach.” So “Yaourt Pêche” is quite tasty. I take a couple of glasses of it on my return to my table.
Tracker Debbie
Debbie is our self declared tracker. She has developed this interest in animal footprints–in what beast makes them, and in where and what time of day were they taken. We go on a morning walk along the Ottawa River behind the hotel and I’m hoping she will discover something exotic to share with us.
“Don’t mess up the cross-country ski tracks!” Debbie and Maurice, as a lignt snow falls, standing at the trailhead, with the Ottawa River behind them. While this looks like a trail into the wilderness, the reality is that in less than a kilometre, we are in ChocoMotive, an artisinal chocolate factory in the old trainstation in the village of Montebello.
There are some tracks of dogs and maybe some squirrels, but Maurice observes we’re so busy looking down we’re missing the action above. A Pileated Woodpecker swoops over our heads and into a tree, hammers and hops around a bit before disappearing into the forest.
Why Can’t We Get Along?
The din of the yapping sled dogs can be heard from a distance. The dogs are tied up in a fenced off area and are really excited when different sled teams arrive and leave. These animals are beautiful…and quite big.
This beautiful guy is tied off at a distance from the rest. Can’t get along?
Two of the dogs launch into an intense fight-to-the-death looking kind of battle–until the handlers run over, separate, and calm these alpha fighters down. The others yelp and run around, excited by the entertainment.
The tiny door openings make the trailer look more like an oversized ant trap than a comfortable conveyer of canines. Somehow the handlers shoehorn each of the large hyper-active sled dogs into its own pigeon hole to transport them.
Short Weekend–Long Impact
I listen as Deanna tells a friend about our weekend. Highlights of curling, of hiking, of exercising in the gymn, and of swimming and hot tubbing, of loving the good food, wine and great company. For me, I’m thinking about a few emphemeral moments, of a dog fight, of fish yogurt, of animal tracking, of photos and of the feeling of a bear’s breath in my hair.
Andorra, just a few hundred metres from Elly and Mike’s
A September to Remember
During our vacation, Mike reminded me of just how far two wheels can take you. In the last six years, two wheels would take him all over North America and Europe. They have taken him to Israel, the United Arab Emirates, China, Australia and other amazing places I have lost track of. They have taken him up to mountain peaks and they have rocketed him down descents at speeds over 110kph. Crazy. They have taken him to highest level of the sport to stand on podiums, and they have taken him to the lowest, taking him to hospitals, with fourteen or more broken bones (I lost count) and more cloth wraps than an Egyptian mummy, to cover wounds that look like they were made more by a tree shredder than by the road.
And for us? Those same two wheels have taken us, as family, to places we have never otherwise seen. Emotionally, they have taken us too, as parents, on a roller coaster that has made us sick with worry to having us laugh and cry with happiness.
So this September those two wheels again took us on a journey, to Andorra, Spain, Germany and Austria. They united our little family together to share thoughts, to laugh, to grieve, and otherwise experience the one of the wildest emotional rollercoasters imaginable.
The trip was bookended wonderfully, with Mike winning his first UCI Grand World Tour stage victory on our very first day of vacation, and on our last day, with Mike winning bronze in the World Road Cycling Championships!
But Two Wheels Didn’t Get Me Up to Mike and Elly’s Place in the Pyrenees Mountains
My sister asked me if I did any riding in Andorra.
No.
Mike and Elly rent a place high in the Pyrenees. I estimated that just to ride my bike to the end of their street and back would take me about four hours: 30 minutes to ride down the mountain switchbacks; 30 minutes or more to unclinch my fingers from the brake levers and to clean the “brown sweat” from my shorts; and then it would take me three hours to ride/crawl my way back to their place.
View from Mike and Elly’s balcony, after sunset, down the road to the valley.
The best part of Andorra was hiking–that is, when we weren’t chilling at Mike and Elly’s.
Ryland was chilling better than all of us…
Crack of dawn early morning chilling
Just a few metres from Mike and Elly’s…Elly National Geographic’ing Drew and Ryland….
In Andorra, like walking through a factory outlet on a city-sized scale.
Andorra, after Stage 19, Mike seeing Elly for the first time after weeks of racing….
Mike seeing his nephew for the first time ever.
Andorra, just after the start of Stage 20
Andorra, this photo is amazing to me in that the person on the far right, Joan, a friend of Elly’s, is the doppelgänger of my sister, Cathie.
Andorra: Uncle and nephew warming up for the Stage while a crowd of fans look on.
Andorra: Stages 19 and 20 were mountain top finishes in the Pyrenees…and as incredibly high and timeless as the Pyrenees are, the clouds reach higher but for a moment.
How to stay warm in the Pyrenees.
Drew demonstrating how pro photographers engage their subjects, while waiting for the race finish.
Girona, Spain
Girona: Cloudy early morning
Regulars on the Rambla
Independence Day approaching.
Girona: Father and son sucking it back.
In a cafe in Girona, I caught Danelle lost in thought, perhaps fathoming the depth and breadth of a mother’s burden of love.
Mediterranean: Two Wheels to the Coast
I made a solo bike ride to the Mediterranean and was rewarded with the spectacle of rain coming in from Africa.
Tossa de Mar on a clearer day.
Cadaques, Spain
Husband painting, wife reading.
Mike cooling off after our bike ride.
Ryland is okay with a hug after a sweaty Mike has cooled down and cleaned up by the dip in the bay.
Sharing some of the sea’s and country’s treasures
Sailing from Sant Feliu
Mike’s teammate, Nate, and his girlfriend, Annie, sailed with us, out of Sant Feliu.
Drew cooling off, without spilling a drop.
Toasting to family and friends.
Mike checking out the endless horizon.
Munich, Germany: Oktoberfest
Lots of dirdls but not sure the shoes are always traditional.
Oktoberfest crowd, but not sure about the turkey hat on the left.
The beer tents are the size of hockey arenas, and the beers are lined up, and the bands play on.
Having a small one in a nearby market.
A glass half-full kind of person
Off to Austria
Seefeld, Austria; a stream ran along part of our trail where we spotted this trout, the water so clear the fish looked like it was flying in air. My being a farm boy who spent endless hours trout fishing, I felt a deeply rooted urge to get a fishing pole!
A farmer, I suppose, left these eggs on top of a fence post, planning to pick them up on the way back from the fields?
Innsbruck: 2018 UCI World Road Cycling Championships
For my true bike buddy geeks, who build their own bikes, this and the next photo are for you to aspire to! Why bother with carbon fibre?
Crowds were four or five rows deep near the finish early in the day, and got more and more crowded as the day went on, so it was hard to get photos. Most of the viewing was on the jumbo screens around the finish.
After the podium, Mike sees Elly and races across to the crowd to see her, with the UCI anti-doping agent keeping him in sight!
End of Day Celebrations: Team Canada’s Elite Men, along with announcer Randy Ferguson.
Special Athlete/Coach moment!
Happiness!
And so our September vacation ended…with celebrating Mike’s podium finish in the World Championships. It had started with Mike’s most significant athletic accomplishment in his life, and ended with another accomplishment even more significant, bookending for us three weeks of time as family, with a roller coster of emotions, and with a reminder of just how far two wheels can take you,
No shorts pulled up to my chest, no fanny belt, no Tilley hat, no athletic socks with sandals, no tour bus nearby!
So ok..I had a camera and…ok I was taking photos of the most popular tourist site in Ottawa, as if I had never seen it before. I was pretty intense, standing like a photo-geek on top of restaurant benches, trying to get the best shot possible of, ok, a pretty touristy landmark, on the penthouse level outdoor bar of the Andaz Hotel in Byward Market. Who else would be there or do this but a tourist?
A Tourist in My Home Town!
As I upload the photos from last weekend I have to concede I am a tourist…a habitual hometown tourist. I have billions and billions of photos of these sorts of things. Even I ask myself, why did I try so hard to get that photo? Why bother?
But with out-of-town friends things look different through their eyes. I love having them here…forcing me to see things differently than I have seen before
Peace Tower and Library with the Ottawa River in the distance, from the Andaz Hotel in the Byward Market, Ottawa
Chilling in 35c temperatures on top of Andaz Hotel in the Byward Market, Ottawa
Seeing streets I frequently walk, but from a different touristy hotel perspective
View from the Andaz Hotel of the Byward Market, Ottawa. Usually I’m at street level–it’s even prettier from up here.
Byward Market and Gatineau Hills (which now has extra special spiritual significance for us) from the Andaz Hotel, Ottawa
Seeing the present through times past
Part of being a tourist I suppose is getting pulled into the history of a place…and I’m a armchair historian…with a layman’s perspective that would make any true historian laugh. Deanna often quips about my watching World War II documentarys: “I don’t know what’s wrong with him <me>, he keeps watching WWII documentaries and he already knows the ending!”
Amazing, is it not, that 400 years ago (1613), Champlain wrote about this falls being a curtain (“rideau” in French) on the Ottawa River? All these years later, the analogy touches so much of Ottawa, from Rideau River, Rideau Canal, Rideau Township, Rideau Centre, Rideau Hall and so on. Looking at it today, as if for the first time, there’s a sense of depth and history in its beauty. I try to see it through Champlain’s eyes…
Small Serendiputous Surprises: Would Never Expect It!
We went to the Tavern by the Falls and a band was setting up. I have always had bad experiences with small-venue bands, with them playing too loud and too intrusive types of songs when all I want to do is enjoy good conversation with friends and a good amber beer. But…it was as if I was experiencing this sort of thing for the first time…
Being surprised at the Tavern by the Falls, with a fun set of music by a rising young star: http://www.isabellanicole.co/
Two days later at work, I was in a queue to buy coffee and I recognized that one of the guys in line was the keyboard player for the band we watched. I said hello and remarked how much I loved the performance…so that’s what living in Ottawa is about…in a lot of ways it is a small town…chalk up one to a home-town tourist!
We could always see what was coming up on the set!
Ann
Joerg
How We Should Always See Things
Concerned and astonished! “Grandpa’s a Tourist!” This is how we should see all things from now on, as if we are seeing them for the very first time.
39 years ago today, I saw someone who changed my life forever
All this happened on the weekend anniversary of a time 39 years ago when I met the most important person in my life. It was so distant in decades of time. It was so distant in thousands of kilometres. I wrote about that first meeting in my journal, seeing her for the first time, in Winnipeg back in 1979, where I was on a tourist’s errand. With her, I am still every bit a tourist, seeing her everyday as if I had not seen her this way before, but with a rich sense of times past and times spent together. Now, along with many serendituous surprises and with great friends like Joerg and Ann, my partner has blessed us with an amazing daughter, son-in-law, and grandchild, son and daughter-in-law and extended family (love you, Debbie) that has made me a home-town family tourist forever.
Last Sunday morning together…a photo from a fanatical home-town tourist!
The rainstorm ended before we began the hike. An intermittent breeze set off bursts of falling rainwater here and there which had been trapped in the canopy above, reminding of us of the intensity of what had come and gone. The sky began to clear. It was unseasonably hot when we started and the sun made it so much hotter. The air felt jungle-like thick with the smell of rotting leaves and earthy dampness. Mist rose from the rocks in the clearings. My clothes stuck to the sweat on my back and thighs. We barely spoke on our walk to the lookout.
Still we would have loved to share this hike with you. We would have shown you in the way we had shown our very own children that nature is generous with her gifts. Some of them so small and fragile you really have to look closely to find them. And for us, well, we would love this seeing nature’s wonders as if we had never seen it before, through your eyes. I have always loved this. I would have told you the myth about why the trail is called Penguin. The story that, when you cross country ski on this trail, the trail is so steep, steeper than stairs, you end up walking up it in your skis, plopping your weight from one ski to the other, waddling all the way up to the lookout like a penguin. I would mimic the motion to make you laugh. I might have told you too the real story about why the trail is called Penguin, but I don’t think it’s nearly as much fun. Besides it was your dad who told me the fun story first–and it made me laugh.
I would have explained the squawking/croaking we heard was from a raven and not from a crow. That the other song was that of a red cardinal. That yet the other pretty song was from a bird I couldn’t recognize or maybe I would tell you, as I told your father when he was a boy and I couldn’t name the bird, that it was Big Bird from Sesame Street, something you and I could laugh at years from now.
I would have told you too the three bluejays that swooped in front of us, appearing and vanishing as fast as thought, looked like a mother, father, and a grown offspring.
If there were any chance you didn’t spot it before I did, I would have taken you off the trail a bit to marvel at the “Chicken of the Woods” fungi. Amazing what can flourish from something that was once was alive. New colour and vibrance. How would you describe it for me? What do you think of it? Nature is crazy. Or what would you think of the tree pushing against the rock, how some living things are forever shaped by chance, by things that are in their way? Or the red baneberries almost hidden…you have to look very closely to see them among the dead and rotting branches.
When we reach the bench at Penguin Lookout, we sit and I catch my breath from the climb. It’s a beautiful place to view the expanse across the spread of forest and hills. This is where I share with you the joy of your cousin who was born just a week earlier. A beautiful baby boy. You would have loved him. After some moments, I think I can share with you some of the old and worn writings carved in the bench. They seem to be about other people’s ashes and memories that are scattered in this special place.
One of the writings on the bench seems like a kind of message you might have felt.
Your mom and dad thought this would be a perfect place for you. It is. You’ll always have company here.
Spending time with you at Penguin Lookout, I feel that, regardless of all I could have taught you on hikes like this or during anytime we could ever have been together, I have learned so much more from you. Of how much your mother and father love you. Of how you’d never know what great parents they are. Of how we loved you without ever seeing you. Of how we need to appreciate all the little things just a little bit more.
How long have I been waiting to see windmills in Holland? Even when we drove into Holland we had to wait. We drove for an hour or so from Maastricht towards Keukenhof before we saw our first one…hah, the lack of windmills was seriously threatening my cliche world-view of Holland! But then they seemed to be everywhere. This one is the tourist feature at Keukenhof Gardens–and bonus: with a canal!
I Could Never Stand Waiting … for Anything
I think I must have been four and half years old when I got busted that Christmas Eve. I was on my hands and knees, trying to sneak past Mom and Dad’s open bedroom door to get downstairs to see what Santa had got me for Christmas. The creaking floorboards of the old farmhouse gave me away. “Back to bed!” Mom screamed from inside the dark doorway. I scurried back to my bed as fast as any terrorized mouse would, knowing, as all four year olds must know, disobedience to a parent would be certain death! Still I did try it again that night. Waiting was killing me.
I couldn’t stand waiting back then, and I can’t stand waiting now. In a lot of ways I guess I’m still a four year old. If this spring I could have snuck down the hallway and down the stairs to get away from an unseasonably long winter in Ottawa, to take a sneak look at spring in Netherlands and Belgium, I would have gladly done it!
How long have we been waiting to visit the Netherlands to see the windmills, the canals, the flowers? Hah, a lifetime. How long have we been waiting to experience Belgium, to taste the chocolate, the fries, the waffles? Drink the beer? Probably since university—which, if you listen to my kids, is at least a hundred years. So while we planned this trip only a few months ago, primarily to watch Mike race in the Ardennes Classics, we have been waiting so much longer for this trip and for the life experiences that this trip and this spring would bring us. It would pull us back through history, it would involve Mike’s biggest athletic success to-date, and it would happen all while we are waiting, longing for, something far bigger yet! I can’t stand waiting….
Keukenhof: almost too much sensory overload after months of waiting, while shovelling snow in Ottawa!
While still not yet in full blossom, this is an impressive river of blue to watch as it shimmers lightly in the breeze.
Brilliant light and colours and startling whiffs of fragrance are everywhere.
Waiting for the right selfie moment…and btw what do we think about selfies?
Spring flowers spilling out of everything! In 2010, the record was set for squeezing the most people into a beetle: 20…wondering if this could be a daffodil record.
Waiting to cross the street in Maastricht, Netherlands, and wondering why, back in North America, the best selling vehicle is the Ford 150 Truck. How many of these guys can you squeeze into one F150!
Maastricht: this is how an above-ground parking lot should look! How many Ford 150’s can fit in this space?
Waiting doesn’t seem to be a problem in a timeless sort of place like Maastricht. You can have a beer pretty much anytime.
Savouring a moment, while crossing a bridge in Bruges, Belgium.
Exploring Bruges
We didn’t have to wait long to complete our To-do list for Bruges:✓Eat Belgium chocolate, ✓Eat Belgium frites with mayo, ✓Eat Belgium waffles…✓Drink lots of Belgium beer. Done!
Liège: No stepper machine necessary in this city. Only 374 steps to reach the top.
And we did–Deanna making the peak.
Small pleasures of walking through the medieval town Durbuy. It claims to be the “smallest town on earth” with a population of 500.
Early morning view from behind our Bed and Breakfast near Durbuy.
Durbuy: the kind of bike you might catch me riding, but the baby seat doesn’t look too comfortable nor does it look CSA approved.
Last evening in Belgium, eating frites and drinking Trappist beer in an outdoor cafe downtown Leuven.
Seeing our world through a little of Belgium history
Belgium is sometimes called the “Battleground of Europe” and evidence of it can be seen everywhere, with fortifications or monuments that go back to well before the Romans.
Waterloo: I now have a visual for when someone uses the expression, “He met his Waterloo.” This is “La Butte du Lion” near Waterloo, commemorating where Napoleon’s forces were defeated in 1815. Only about 200 years ago.
The Battlefield of Waterloo Museum made the issues of the time real for us. We came away with a feeling of what life must have been like at the time, and a better understanding what lead to this “global” crisis and what happened that would bring relative peace to Europe for almost a hundred years.
Looking at the field Napoleon’s army crossed under fire to engage in the battle of the Ferme de Mont Saint Jean
World WAR I: I read that the Tyne Cot Cemetery, located near Paaschendaele, is sometimes called the “City of the Dead,” with almost 12,000 dead resting here, of whom only 3605 could be identified. In the museum you read some of the letters and accounts of the soldiers, their parents, their wives or their girlfriends and feel a painful connection. Many of the parents of the fallen would have been my age. Again and again you can’t help but be puzzled that humanity does this to itself too often.
Looking through “Canada Gate” at all the open space, across which the Canadians would finally have to attack to take the Paaschendaele objective.
From near Canada Gate, looking at the open fields the Canadians had to cross to reach this ridge, it is tough comprehending that this quiet pastoral setting could be a place of such misery and horror shown in the photos of the time (from the Canadian Encyclopedia.ca)
The “Memorial Museum Paaschendaele 1917” also immersed us into the era and political forces that lead up to the war and its terrible loss of some 16 million lives.
One of the major battles of World War II was the Battle of the Bulge, involving a mind-boggling number of men–more than a million (some 600,000 Germans, 500,000 Americans and 55,000 British fighters). This immense statue outside the museum celebrates the end of WWII that saw some 65 million people killed.
Re-looking at our current political world through the lenses of our Belgium experience, a person has to be concerned. This trip renewed a commitment to encourage everyone I come in touch with to speak up against populism, nativism, lies, bigotry, and indifference and to support good journalism! After all, does Belgium or the rest of the world need any more of these monuments or museums to human stupidity?
Bike Racing in Belgium….REAL BIKE FANS!
To watch bike racing live is all about waiting. You have to go early to a good viewing spot and wait, and wait, and wait until you hear the TV helicopter approaching…and then wait more…
Finding Waldo…the tough job of being a cycling fan, and especially a cycling parent, is probably picking a face out of some 180+ other cyclists surrounded by thousands of fans…and yes, he’s the skinny guy in sunglasses and colourful helmet and kit!
…and sometimes a rider can pick out a fan in a crowd!
This climb, Mur de Huy, is a lot steeper than it looks in this photo. And as a newbie cycling fan, I’m only beginning to appreciate the rich history of climbs like this in La Flèche Wallonne and humbly recognize how lucky Deanna and I are to scream our support for Mike here.
Days after this photo, Karol-Ann Canuel let us know that she heard, among the thousands of other cheering and noisy fans, Deanna and I scream “Allez, allez, Karol, bon anniversaire!!!” near the top of Mur de Huy but she didn’t realize it was us. I guess you’d have to wonder what idiots would be wishing her a happy birthday at the apex of this sufferfest! Just a note to Karol after watching this, I personally won’t be doing any Mur de Huy’s on any of my birthdays.
Finally, about waiting
As much as I hate waiting, there is something so special when you realize what you are waiting for, is turning out to be better, sweeter and more fulfilling than your best expectations. That’s what happened that long ago Christmas morning. And too it happened big time for us in Belgium when Mike made his first UCI World Tour podium. We have waited and watched him and his wife work so hard, for so long, and sacrifice so much, for them to get him there….it was tears-of-joy sweet to experience…but I’m feeling it is not so sweet as what we are waiting for next from them and from Danelle and Drew in the coming months…I gotta say it again, I can’t stand waiting!
It’s never been this friggin cold over Christmas in my memory! With temperatures dropping to -28c and windchill to -40c, it would have been a good holiday to stay cosey by the fire with a warm drink, but we didn’t. We spent a lot of time outdoors and the cold granted us a few lessons. It taught us, among many other things, these five little holiday lessons.
The Christmas Day Family Hike has become a core family tradition for us and every year is seems to get bigger. This year was by far the biggest AND the coldest! Next year’s will be bigger but hopefully warmer!
Lesson 1: when it’s really cold, the crowds stay indoors, leaving you lots of room to enjoy places like “Patinage en Forët.”
Patinage en Forêt (Skating in the Forest), with Danelle and Drew on Christmas Eve.
It was Christmas Eve and it was almost as if we owned the skating trail, all 3km of it! Only a handful of others braved the cold to be on the circuit.
We lapped the circuit several times, loving the sensation of skating in amongst the trees, smelling the pine, hearing the crunch of skate blades on ice, and the sound of the wind through the tree branches–which randomly released clouds of snow on us.
We had enough crowd-free space to attempt skate dancing and backward skating! We returned to the cabin with lots of snow on our bums and knees—proof of our not so perfect ice skating prowess!
Lesson 2: when it is “Too Cold To Snow,” it can! It was -21c in Gatineau Park on Christmas Day, and with windchill it felt like -38c! I have often heard that, when it is this cold, it is too cold to for heavy snow–and generally the statement has held true for me, but not on this Christmas holiday.
It was snowing hard on Christmas Day, and the wind was strong, making it feel like -38c in Gatineau Park. A gust releases an extra burtst of snow from the trees onto Drew and Danelle at the trailhead.
Just how cold was it?
Crisp?
Brisk?
Raw?
Hard?
Biting?
Bleak?
It was all of the above and more…
How cold was it? December 27th: hair-and-eye-lashes-turning-white-with-hoar-frost cold!
How cold was it? Christmas Day it was teeth-baring and teeth-chattering cold!
How cold was it? Boxing Day: white-clouds-of-breath cold!
How cold was it? Christmas Day it was body-shivering, gotta-huddle-close cold!
Lesson 3: if you defy the cold, Nature will reward you with Its breath-taking gifts!
Fungus on this stump cups mounds of powder snow.
Lesson 4: when it’s really cold, acts of play and of love are all that warmer!
Mike and Elly, so much warmth together!
There was hiking, skiing, and snowshoeing over the holidays….
Maurice demonstrating the Euro-soccer dive!
Drew looking like an authentic National Geographic pro photographer–getting down in the snow to get a perfect shot!
Family on a mission–the attack is on!
Standing in a foot and a half of new “Utah Powder”
Whispering secrets?
Maurice bounding along in his raquettes (snow shoes)!
Lots of climbing on the way to Lac Fortune–a very metaphoric sort of name for our hiking destination!
Debbie, our winter cardinal!
Lesson 5: family is the depth, the stength, and the reason this cold Christmas Holiday was the warmest and best one ever!
An early spring morning walk to the Girona Market, with Elly, Deanna, and Shawn Clark –if only a camera could capture the astonishing scent of wisteria! (Missing from the photo: Mike was at the Gran Premio Miguel Indurain, and Karol-Ann was at the Volta Limburg Classic)
Expectancy. It’s an interesting word.
Six days before leaving for Spain, our financial advisor came to our house to discuss retirement plans. She handed me a document with, among many financial graphs, projections, and illustrations, a colourful chart that was meant–I think–to demonstrate two things: that she was doing a great job in growing our savings (which she most certainly was) and that my wife and I should be financially comfortable until…well…until the far right side of the chart. One line of the chart followed our “Projected Assets.” This indicated that we should not be eating cat food in our retirement unless for some reason, dementia or other dramatic change in food preferences, we chose to. Another line showed “Forecasted Spending” which ran more or less parallel but below the first. That would be a good thing. Below those two lines was a chronological listing of years from 2017 to 2046, the last being labeled two things: 1.“Projected Life Expectancy,” and 2. “90 years”—that’s where the page ends and presumably I do too. I recalled the old adage that nobody wants to live until that age, 90…until of course they are 89. I then spotted another expectancy on the chart: the “Average Male Expectancy” date, something that seemed more likely. If I were lucky enough to get to this point, I would have, let’s say, just 22 more Christmases left. But then, I reminded myself there is an unmarked but another possible expectancy, a more genetic one, whereby if I lived as long as my dad, I would have just 3 more of those family gatherings.
These “expectancies” are not bothersome in of themselves, because as Groucho Marx observed, “Getting older is no problem. You just have to live long enough.” But they did startle me in the way that, say, I have experienced on a long hike before, where I stumbled upon a posted trail map, with the “YOU ARE HERE” marker, and realized I’m suddenly close to the end (Wow, I must have really been enjoying the hike to forget how much ground I’ve covered!). The good news with the trail map example, versus the retirement one, when I passed the finish line, if someone said, “He’s in a better place now,” they’d be referring to an Irish pub.
I prefer other expectancies–the non-statistical ones. The ones that stumble into my awareness. I’m thinking about the warm and hopeful ones, of a new baby coming into the world, or of the coming of first light after a long dark night. Or, from a cold Ottawa winter perspective, the pleasant expectancy of a spring about to arrive.
Spring in Girona
Morning sun finding tulips at the fountain in Plaça de Catalunya, Girona.
A wave of welcome from Mike as we strolled along the Roman Wall.
As Mike suggested, “When in Girona, you need to think ‘Cottage Mindset.’ Rush nothing.” Mike and Elly’s balcony was a good spot for cottage chilling–a place where we shared many conversations over morning coffee and afternoon wine, enjoying the views of the backyard, the Roman Wall, and the mountains, as well as the most blood-red sunsets I have ever seen.
Morning on the balcony, having a café con leche and appreciating the coming of spring, below the Roman Wall.
An afternoon exploration of the Wall, while wondering about its centuries of ghosts. Girona is the city of sieges, with 25 sieges against these walls…with 7 losses where the city was overwhelmed by military force, starvation and/or disease/plague.
The Catedral de Girona dominating the old city and the Riu Onyar–always worth us pausing on the bridge when returning from a café con leche in the Plaça de la Independència.
Early spring foliage along the Rambla.
A favourite meeting place, outside the Federal Café
Joerg and Ann, with wine-assisted smiles!
Mike and Elly looking like movie stars!
The whole crew together: Ann, Deanna, Mike, Shawn, Karol-Ann, and Joerg at Federal Café for dinner
Two views from Joerg and Ann’s AirBnB apartment in the old city
Laundry day in Girona.
Like kids! Joerg and Ann stop to share gelato in the Plaça del la Independència, enjoying what Mike calls the best gelato in Girona.
Morning sun burning through fog along the Riu Onyar.
Elly and Shawn joining us at Brots de Vi (Break Out the Wine) restaurant in Girona.
Exploring Basque Country–via the Vuelta al Pais Vasco
A Bike Race is a Good Way to See a lot of Territory!
Where the Retirement Graph had me in the Autumn of life, or even early Winter (depending on which expectancy is chosen), when it comes to being a fan of the UCI World Tour, I’m a spring baby! There’s a lot to learn.
And to watch a World Tour stage race live, like the Vuelta Ciclista al Pais Vasco, you have to plan…a lot. The races typically cover large geographical areas, requiring long car drives and hotel hopping. You have to plan out the details of each day, accounting for road closures, crowds, parking, If it is a key race, you have to arrive hours ahead of time to find a good viewing spot.
And sometimes serendipity is key–one of the days, we found an Irish pub with Europort TV race coverage, just a 100 metres from the finish line. We saw the race develop on tv until the last 10km and ran to the finish line to see it end!
San Sebastian–as a newbie spectator of World Pro Tour, I am overwhelmed at times by the complexity and richness of the sport: who-is-who and what team is doing what to the other 20+ teams. While picking out a favourite rider is not too difficult when everyone is sitting still at the start, Deanna and I are still slowly getting better at spotting that one rider in a peloton moving at 60+kph, among all the other 180+ skinny guys in helmets and sunglasses and in mind boggling arrays of colours.
Mike’s teammate, Alex Howes, in the King of the Mountain Jersey, with Mike waving at me at a neutral start–in San Sebastian
Son and mom at the pre-race sign-in. Mike got us VIP tickets for most of the stages…an extra special way to have access to the riders and special treats like cervaza (beer) at the start and finish of the races.
The Race Day Routine
The stage races typically last 4 to 5 hours each day, starting around 1p.m., which means our mornings and evenings were free to explore the towns and countryside, the food and the wine.
Pamplona. In terms of Life Expectancy, running with the bulls could have an impact (pun intended) based on all the photos we saw in the shops lining the route. The photos typically feature runners with a horn up their buts, being rammed through doors or into walls, or tossed on trajectories into Low Earth Orbit!
Apologies. As an English graduate, I had to visit the Café Iruña (Basque for Pamplona), which is featured in Hemingways “The Sun Also Rises,” and was a hangout for him.
While this statue in Vitoria-Gasteiz commemorates the defeat of the Napolean’s army–it’s part of long history of war and continuous invasions.
A quick stop behind a farmer’s truck, to soak up the experience–long drives on narrow roads, through field after field of Rioja, winding through mountains and valleys.
Views from the finish line in Elciego: on one side there is the modern–the Bodegas Marques de Riscal hotel architected by a Canadian (Frank Gehry).
Views from the finish line in Elciego: on another side there is the old–the Iglesia de San Andres.
Views from the finish line in Elciego: on yet another side (looking up), there’s the crazy–beer happy fans celebrating from the top of the VIP bus, among all the thousands of bike-crazy fans.
Day Trips from Girona: To Figueres to the Dali Museum
You can take photos in the Dali Museum–of all the impressive, the bizarre, the obscene and the popular works. Figuerres is worth the 40 minute train ride.
Chilling in Figueres
Car Trip to Hike Along the Mediterranean
From the top of our hike, looking back at the beach where we started.
Lots of little surprises in tide pools–in amazingly clear water.
Stopping in Cologne: Amazing Winery
A big highlight of the trip was visiting Mas Molla winery in Cologne. Here the wine maker, Monstie, is in an intensely technical wine discussion with Joerg. The winery has been in her family since 1338! The barrels, bottles, dust, spiders, dampness, odours…all seem from a different century!
Round-Trip Bike Ride: Girona to Llagostera
Llagostera, our lunch destination on our 46km bike ride.
Poppies & wild flowers lining the bike path.
Along the bike path, I stopped along this Canola field and reflected proudly that I have either hiked or cycled up to the peaks of the biggest mountains in the immediate background, while enjoying the patchwork of the canola crops and green fields and other spring colours.
Albert, an hospitable Catalan gentleman, not only demonstrated a local tradition, drinking wine from a porron, he bought one for Joerg and I to embarrass ourselves with!
Joerg begins to master the technique of the porron, though as much wine ended up all ourselves as did in our mouths!
Picnic with Mike & Elly’s Friends: to Watch the Sunset
Good wine and friends, while looking over Girona.
Long after the sun had set, and while we were on our walk to our restaurant,”El Cul Del Mon” (Catalan for “The Boonies”), we saw a dark and sinister shape lurking in a field about 50 metres away. Big black dog? Bear cub? It was a wild boar–as confirmed by this enhancement photo!
Last Evening in Girona
So, expectancy is an interesting word. And to me, Life Expectancy is more about this: the anticipation of good things that happen when you mix family and good friends, in interesting places!
Setting out on our Traditional Christmas Day Family Hike: we had hoped to reach Sant Marti Sacalm El Far, a sanctuary perched on the top front-right curve of this ridge, some 1100+m above sea level.
“There’s no way we’ll get to the top!” We were standing by the car, looking at a ridge that was way too far away, with way too little time to get there.
We decided to give it a try and see how far we could get before turning around when we ran out of time. It was a disappointing thought. We had driven so long to get here.
Mind you, a big part of the reason were short of time, was the road up to this trailhead. It was fun for me to drive – a narrow, twisting challenge of switchback on switchback – but a nightmare for all five passengers in the car. They threatened to puke on me if I didn’t slow down!
This was the start of the 2016 version of our Traditional Christmas Day Family Hike, the Spain edition! Maybe we couldn’t get to the top, but the tradition would go on…there would be some challenging climbs, some stunning views, some great laughs, and some family moments that will remain memories for ever.
A Christmas Day of Familiar and Foreign Traditions
Mike and Elly went out of their way to plan the hike and a lot of other familiar traditions to make a special Christmas time for everyone. Mike and Elly bought a live Christmas Tree (with a 25kgms bulb of earth on its bottom) that they had to carry a long way through narrow streets and up steps to get into their apartment, and they decorated it. Mike bought a large screen TV so our family could watch Christmas movies on Christmas Eve (at the very least it was a commendable excuse). They even arranged for us to go together to order a turkey at a neighborhood butcher…and they arranged so many other things. I felt pretty much at home in a very different world…by the way, in Girona, Santa doesn’t bring the presents (no chimneys!). It’s the job of ‘Tió de Nadal’ (Christmas log). It’s a log with a nose and eyes, and it’s propped up on one side by two legs. If you feed it by leaving food in front of its face, it brings you presents on Christmas. Not very believable but…let’s just say there were presents for me on Christmas.
Christmas time in Girona – big in spirit!
Shopping and iPhoning along the Rambla in late evening
Girona’s Eiffel Bridge in Christmas form
Biking: Although Not Technically a Christmas Tradition…
In 2015, the weather was so warm in Ottawa that Mike and I were cycling on Christmas Eve! In 2014, we were in Maui and we cycled. There is a pattern. And Girona is perfect for riding.
On the 4 hour loop to the Mediterranean, Rueben and I stopped in Tossa de Mar for cafe and bravas
Riding along the Mediterranean…steep cliffs, scary descents, punishing climbs, beautiful vistas
The castle at Tossa de Mar. A few days after the bike ride, I drove Deanna, Danelle, and Drew back to this place where we had wine and tapas on the terrace of the castle-converted-hotel-restaurant, soaking up a warm Mediterranean breeze.
Mike designed this ride for me…105km distance with 1520m of climbing (some at 18-20% gradient!), taking in some incredible vistas from the cliffs over the Mediterranean, and unimaginable silence in the mountains, and pastoral vistas over fields sometimes speckled with sheep, goats, donkeys, or cattle.
Christmas Time Around Girona – Magical
Sun setting while we’re in the mountains
Castellfollit de la Roca is a medieval village rising out of a basalt craig 50 meters high! It’s tiny, just a km along the craig.
Absorbing Christmas Season in Girona – so much to see
For the Game of Thrones fans, Girona appears in the series in Season Six – it is just that old, that unique, that beautiful. Check out: Game of Thrones Video
While walking the ancient Roman Wall around old Girona, I took this photo of the apartment where Mike and Elly now live: it includes the third-floor balcony that overlooks a beautiful walled courtyard.
On an early evening stroll to the Rambla
A friend we found while walking in a local park
Christmas shoppers in the many narrow streets
The greeter, just outside of Espresso Mafia…a good place for a café con leche
Danelle’s scarf on a chair…she’s gone inside to buy daddy some Christmas Cheer!
Looking back over a misty morning over Girona, on our hike up to the Castell de Montjuic
Enjoying the reflections while walking home along the Riu Onyar on a late afternoon
Christmas Time with Friends and Family, Good Food and Good Spanish Wine!
No need for a car…a relaxed walk to dinner. Dinner in Girona is a late event by North American Standards. Many restaurants don’t open until 8:30 with 10pm seemingly an average time to dine out.
Dining at El Cul del Mon (“The Boonies,” Catalan translation)
El Cul del Mon. Night of Deanna and my 34th anniversary. We showed up twenty minutes early for out 8:30 reservation and thought there was a big problem. On this Sunday evening, well after dark, it looked like the place had gone out of business. Or maybe it was closed for the day. No sign of life except for a stray black cat looming around the front.
Dinner at Brots de Vi (“Break out the wine,” Catalan translation)
Ok, Back to the Christmas Day Family Hike
Back to the hike to the top of the ridge… The hike is all about creating long lasting memories over generations. The challenge of course is having the older generation keeping up with the younger, more athletic one. Here, the climb starts to get steeper and more challenging. Soon the walk turned into a climb and a hard physical challenge. Danelle would drop back to encourage Deanna up through the challenge.
The trail got narrower and narrower with steep climbs and switch backs, to the point, just after this photo, we begin climbing up a cliff
Surprising…or maybe not so surprisingly… the google map calculation about how long it would take us to reach the top was greatly over estimated. Or maybe because our kids are in such great shape…whatever the reason, the we got to the top, with time to spare!
Mike and Elly owning the road!
These are our kids leading the way!
Drew and Danelle at the edge of the cliff
As a good friend, Joerg, would later point out…Mike and Elly are pointing to Adelaide, Australia, where they will be in less than a week’s time!
Drew and Danelle enjoying the view from the top of the world!
Picnic at Sant Marti Scalm El Far…we made it.
Wrapping Up the Traditional Christmas Day Family Hike
Looking back at the challenge…We did it! There was no way we should have been able to reach the top, but we did it. The tradition goes on, maybe bigger than ever The car ride was more quiet on the 65km drive back to Girona – for me, thinking about some of the challenging climbs, some of the stunning views, some of the great laughs, and some of the family moments that will remain memories for ever.