Girona

Expectancy. It’s an interesting word.

Six days before leaving for Spain, our financial advisor came to our house to discuss retirement plans. She handed me a document with, among many financial graphs, projections, and illustrations, a colourful chart that was meant–I think–to demonstrate two things: that she was doing a great job in growing our savings (which she most certainly was) and that my wife and I should be financially comfortable until…well…until the far right side of the chart. One line of the chart followed our “Projected Assets.” This indicated that we should not be eating cat food in our retirement unless for some reason, dementia or other dramatic change in food preferences, we chose to. Another line showed “Forecasted Spending” which ran more or less parallel but below the first. That would be a good thing. Below those two lines was a chronological listing of years from 2017 to 2046, the last being labeled two things: 1.“Projected Life Expectancy,” and 2. “90 years”—that’s where the page ends and presumably I do too. I recalled the old adage that nobody wants to live until that age, 90…until of course they are 89. I then spotted another expectancy on the chart: the “Average Male Expectancy” date, something that seemed more likely. If I were lucky enough to get to this point, I would have, let’s say, just 22 more Christmases left. But then, I reminded myself there is an unmarked but another possible expectancy, a more genetic one, whereby if I lived as long as my dad, I would have just 3 more of those family gatherings.

These “expectancies” are not bothersome in of themselves, because as Groucho Marx observed, “Getting older is no problem. You just have to live long enough.” But they did startle me in the way that, say, I have experienced on a long hike before, where I stumbled upon a posted trail map, with the “YOU ARE HERE” marker, and realized I’m suddenly close to the end (Wow, I must have really been enjoying the hike to forget how much ground I’ve covered!). The good news with the trail map example, versus the retirement one, when I passed the finish line, if someone said, “He’s in a better place now,” they’d be referring to an Irish pub.

I prefer other expectancies–the non-statistical ones. The ones that stumble into my awareness. I’m thinking about the warm and hopeful ones, of a new baby coming into the world, or of the coming of first light after a long dark night. Or, from a cold Ottawa winter perspective, the pleasant expectancy of a spring about to arrive.

Spring in Girona

March Flowers in Girona-1 — Morning sun finding tulips at the fountain in Plaça de Catalunya, Girona.

2017-04-09 Mike waving from apt window in Girona — A wave of welcome from Mike as we strolled along the Roman Wall.

Mike & Elly's Balcony-2 — As Mike suggested, “When in Girona, you need to think ‘Cottage Mindset.’ Rush nothing.” Mike and Elly’s balcony was a good spot for cottage chilling–a place where we shared many conversations over morning coffee and afternoon wine, enjoying the views of the backyard, the Roman Wall, and the mountains, as well as the most blood-red sunsets I have ever seen.

2017-03-31 Balcony view of height of Roman Wall-1 — Morning on the balcony, having a café con leche and appreciating the coming of spring, below the Roman Wall.

2017-04-09 Walking the Roman Walls-1 — An afternoon exploration of the Wall, while wondering about its centuries of ghosts. Girona is the city of sieges, with 25 sieges against these walls…with 7 losses where the city was overwhelmed by military force, starvation and/or disease/plague.

Cathedral and reflection in Girona-1 — The Catedral de Girona dominating the old city and the Riu Onyar–always worth us pausing on the bridge when returning from a café con leche in the Plaça de la Independència.

March Rambla in Girona-1 — Early spring foliage along the Rambla.

2017-04-09 Mike Elly Deanna Ann & Joerg at Federal Cafe in Girona — A favourite meeting place, outside the Federal Café

2017-04-09 Ann and Joerg at Federal Cafe in Girona — Joerg and Ann, with wine-assisted smiles!

2017-04-09 Mike and Elly 2 at Federal Cafe in Girona — Mike and Elly looking like movie stars!

2017-04-13 At Federal Cafe for dinner-1 — The whole crew together: Ann, Deanna, Mike, Shawn, Karol-Ann, and Joerg at Federal Café for dinner

2017-04-09 View from Ann & Joerg Apt — Two views from Joerg and Ann’s AirBnB apartment in the old city

2017-04-09 View from Ann and Joerg Apt 2 in Girona

2017-04-12 Laudry day in Girona-1 — Laundry day in Girona.

2017-04-12 Joerg and Ann in Placia-1 — Like kids! Joerg and Ann stop to share gelato in the Plaça del la Independència, enjoying what Mike calls the best gelato in Girona.

2017-04-12 Girona in Fog-1 — Morning sun burning through fog along the Riu Onyar.

2017-03-31 Elly and Shawn at Brots de Vi-1 — Elly and Shawn joining us at Brots de Vi (Break Out the Wine) restaurant in Girona.

Exploring Basque Country–via the Vuelta al Pais Vasco

A Bike Race is a Good Way to See a lot of Territory!

Where the Retirement Graph had me in the Autumn of life, or even early Winter (depending on which expectancy is chosen), when it comes to being a fan of the UCI World Tour, I’m a spring baby! There’s a lot to learn.

And to watch a World Tour stage race live, like the Vuelta Ciclista al Pais Vasco, you have to plan…a lot. The races typically cover large geographical areas, requiring long car drives and hotel hopping. You have to plan out the details of each day, accounting for road closures, crowds, parking, If it is a key race, you have to arrive hours ahead of time to find a good viewing spot.

And sometimes serendipity is key–one of the days, we found an Irish pub with Europort TV race coverage, just a 100 metres from the finish line. We saw the race develop on tv until the last 10km and ran to the finish line to see it end!

Start of Stage 3 in San Sebastian-1 — San Sebastian–as a newbie spectator of World Pro Tour, I am overwhelmed at times by the complexity and richness of the sport: who-is-who and what team is doing what to the other 20+ teams. While picking out a favourite rider is not too difficult when everyone is sitting still at the start, Deanna and I are still slowly getting better at spotting that one rider in a peloton moving at 60+kph, among all the other 180+ skinny guys in helmets and sunglasses and in mind boggling arrays of colours.

Mike at start of Stage 4 in San Sebastian Alex Howes in Poka Dot Jersey-1 — Mike’s teammate, Alex Howes, in the King of the Mountain Jersey, with Mike waving at me at a neutral start–in San Sebastian

Mike approaching sign-in for Stage 3 in Vitoria-1

Mike and Deanna at sign-in for Stage 3 in Vitoria-1 — Son and mom at the pre-race sign-in. Mike got us VIP tickets for most of the stages…an extra special way to have access to the riders and special treats like cervaza (beer) at the start and finish of the races.

The Race Day Routine

The stage races typically last 4 to 5 hours each day, starting around 1p.m., which means our mornings and evenings were free to explore the towns and countryside, the food and the wine.

2017-04-04 Pamplona Running of the Bulls Statue Closeup-1 — Pamplona. In terms of Life Expectancy, running with the bulls could have an impact (pun intended) based on all the photos we saw in the shops lining the route. The photos typically feature runners with a horn up their buts, being rammed through doors or into walls, or tossed on trajectories into Low Earth Orbit!

2017-04-04 Pamplona Running of the Bulls Statue-1

Cafe Irunia (Hemingways) in Pamplona-1 — Apologies. As an English graduate, I had to visit the Café Iruña (Basque for Pamplona), which is featured in Hemingways “The Sun Also Rises,” and was a hangout for him.

Statue to defeating the French — While this statue in Vitoria-Gasteiz commemorates the defeat of the Napolean’s army–it’s part of long history of war and continuous invasions.

Drive to Vitoria-1 — A quick stop behind a farmer’s truck, to soak up the experience–long drives on narrow roads, through field after field of Rioja, winding through mountains and valleys.

Frank Gehry Designed Hotel Elceigo-1 — Views from the finish line in Elciego: on one side there is the modern–the Bodegas Marques de Riscal hotel architected by a Canadian (Frank Gehry).

Cathedral at end of stage 2 in Eltziego-1 — Views from the finish line in Elciego: on another side there is the old–the Iglesia de San Andres.

Excited fan blowing kiss at end of Stage 2 Pais Vasco-1 — Views from the finish line in Elciego: on yet another side (looking up), there’s the crazy–beer happy fans celebrating from the top of the VIP bus, among all the thousands of bike-crazy fans.

Day Trips from Girona: To Figueres to the Dali Museum

2017-04-12 Dali Museum 02 Figueres-1 — You can take photos in the Dali Museum–of all the impressive, the bizarre, the obscene and the popular works. Figuerres is worth the 40 minute train ride.

Car Trip to Hike Along the Mediterranean

2017-04-10-01 Hiking view from climb-1 — From the top of our hike, looking back at the beach where we started.

2017-04-10 Jelly Fish along ocean-1 — Lots of little surprises in tide pools–in amazingly clear water.

Stopping in Cologne: Amazing Winery

2017-04-10-03 Mas Molla Winery Celler with Montse-1 — A big highlight of the trip was visiting Mas Molla winery in Cologne. Here the wine maker, Monstie, is in an intensely technical wine discussion with Joerg. The winery has been in her family since 1338! The barrels, bottles, dust, spiders, dampness, odours…all seem from a different century!

Round-Trip Bike Ride: Girona to Llagostera

2017-04-13 07 Llagostera-1 — Llagostera, our lunch destination on our 46km bike ride.

2017-04-13 01 Poppies along the bike path-1 — Poppies & wild flowers lining the bike path.

2017-04-13 02 House mountains and mustard field along bike path-1 — Along the bike path, I stopped along this Canola field and reflected proudly that I have either hiked or cycled up to the peaks of the biggest mountains in the immediate background, while enjoying the patchwork of the canola crops and green fields and other spring colours.

2017-04-13 03 Albert showing us how to drink white wine from a porró in Llagostera-1 — Albert, an hospitable Catalan gentleman, not only demonstrated a local tradition, drinking wine from a porron, he bought one for Joerg and I to embarrass ourselves with!

2017-04-13 04 Joerg drinking white wine from a porró in Llagostera-1 — Joerg begins to master the technique of the porron, though as much wine ended up all ourselves as did in our mouths!

Picnic with Mike & Elly’s Friends: to Watch the Sunset

2017-04-09 Picnic at sunset in Girona-1 — Good wine and friends, while looking over Girona.

2017-04-09 Picnic at sunset 2 in Girona-1

2017-04-09 Night shot of wild boar by El Cul del Mon in Girona-1 — Long after the sun had set, and while we were on our walk to our restaurant,”El Cul Del Mon” (Catalan for “The Boonies”), we saw a dark and sinister shape lurking in a field about 50 metres away. Big black dog? Bear cub? It was a wild boar–as confirmed by this enhancement photo!

Last Evening in Girona

2017-04-14 Easter Friday at Joerg & Ann's apt-1

So, expectancy is an interesting word. And to me, Life Expectancy is more about this: the anticipation of good things that happen when you mix family and good friends, in interesting places!

christmas-day-hike-start-1-of-1 — Setting out on our Traditional Christmas Day Family Hike: we had hoped to reach Sant Marti Sacalm El Far, a sanctuary perched on the top front-right curve of this ridge, some 1100+m above sea level.

“There’s no way we’ll get to the top!” We were standing by the car, looking at a ridge that was way too far away, with way too little time to get there.

We decided to give it a try and see how far we could get before turning around when we ran out of time. It was a disappointing thought. We had driven so long to get here.

Mind you, a big part of the reason were short of time, was the road up to this trailhead. It was fun for me to drive – a narrow, twisting challenge of switchback on switchback – but a nightmare for all five passengers in the car. They threatened to puke on me if I didn’t slow down!

This was the start of the 2016 version of our Traditional Christmas Day Family Hike, the Spain edition! Maybe we couldn’t get to the top, but the tradition would go on…there would be some challenging climbs, some stunning views, some great laughs, and some family moments that will remain memories for ever.

A Christmas Day of Familiar and Foreign Traditions

Mike and Elly went out of their way to plan the hike and a lot of other familiar traditions to make a special Christmas time for everyone. Mike and Elly bought a live Christmas Tree (with a 25kgms bulb of earth on its bottom) that they had to carry a long way through narrow streets and up steps to get into their apartment, and they decorated it. Mike bought a large screen TV so our family could watch Christmas movies on Christmas Eve (at the very least it was a commendable excuse). They even arranged for us to go together to order a turkey at a neighborhood butcher…and they arranged so many other things. I felt pretty much at home in a very different world…by the way, in Girona, Santa doesn’t bring the presents (no chimneys!). It’s the job of ‘Tió de Nadal’ (Christmas log). It’s a log with a nose and eyes, and it’s propped up on one side by two legs. If you feed it by leaving food in front of its face, it brings you presents on Christmas. Not very believable but…let’s just say there were presents for me on Christmas.

christmas-tree-lights-late-at-night-in-girona-1-of-1 — Christmas time in Girona – big in spirit!

strolling-the-rambla-late-at-night-in-girona-1-of-1 — Shopping and iPhoning along the Rambla in late evening

eiffle-bridge-in-girona-1-of-1 — Girona’s Eiffel Bridge in Christmas form

Biking: Although Not Technically a Christmas Tradition…

In 2015, the weather was so warm in Ottawa that Mike and I were cycling on Christmas Eve! In 2014, we were in Maui and we cycled. There is a pattern. And Girona is perfect for riding.

rueben-in-tossa-de-mar-1-of-1 — On the 4 hour loop to the Mediterranean, Rueben and I stopped in Tossa de Mar for cafe and bravas

bike-ride-along-mediterrain-1-of-1 — Riding along the Mediterranean…steep cliffs, scary descents, punishing climbs, beautiful vistas

bike-ride-to-tossa-de-mar-1-of-1 — The castle at Tossa de Mar. A few days after the bike ride, I drove Deanna, Danelle, and Drew back to this place where we had wine and tapas on the terrace of the castle-converted-hotel-restaurant, soaking up a warm Mediterranean breeze.

bike-ride-to-the-coast-1-of-1 — Mike designed this ride for me…105km distance with 1520m of climbing (some at 18-20% gradient!), taking in some incredible vistas from the cliffs over the Mediterranean, and unimaginable silence in the mountains, and pastoral vistas over fields sometimes speckled with sheep, goats, donkeys, or cattle.

Christmas Time Around Girona – Magical

sun-setting-drew-and-danelle-on-mountain-top-1-of-1 — Sun setting while we’re in the mountains

village-rising-out-of-the-rocks-1-of-1 — Castellfollit de la Roca is a medieval village rising out of a basalt craig 50 meters high! It’s tiny, just a km along the craig.

Absorbing Christmas Season in Girona – so much to see

For the Game of Thrones fans, Girona appears in the series in Season Six – it is just that old, that unique, that beautiful. Check out: Game of Thrones Video

mike-and-ellys-apartment-from-the-roman-wall-in-girona-1-of-1 — While walking the ancient Roman Wall around old Girona, I took this photo of the apartment where Mike and Elly now live: it includes the third-floor balcony that overlooks a beautiful walled courtyard.

sun-just-setting-in-girona-1-of-1 — On an early evening stroll to the Rambla

peacock-in-girona-1-of-1 — A friend we found while walking in a local park

late-at-night-in-girona-1-of-1 — Christmas shoppers in the many narrow streets

girona-street-1-of-1

statue-by-espresso-mafia-1-of-1 — The greeter, just outside of Espresso Mafia…a good place for a café con leche

girona-street-2-1-of-1 — Danelle’s scarf on a chair…she’s gone inside to buy daddy some Christmas Cheer!

early-light-over-misty-girona-1-of-1 — Looking back over a misty morning over Girona, on our hike up to the Castell de Montjuic

sun-setting-and-reflection-on-the-onyar-in-girona-1-of-1 — Enjoying the reflections while walking home along the Riu Onyar on a late afternoon

Christmas Time with Friends and Family, Good Food and Good Spanish Wine!

mike-elly-deanna-debbie-rueben-lindy-walking-in-girona-1-of-1 — No need for a car…a relaxed walk to dinner. Dinner in Girona is a late event by North American Standards. Many restaurants don’t open until 8:30 with 10pm seemingly an average time to dine out.

el-cul-del-mon-restaurant-whole-group-in-girona-1-of-1 — Dining at El Cul del Mon (“The Boonies,” Catalan translation)

El Cul del Mon. Night of Deanna and my 34th anniversary. We showed up twenty minutes early for out 8:30 reservation and thought there was a big problem. On this Sunday evening, well after dark, it looked like the place had gone out of business. Or maybe it was closed for the day. No sign of life except for a stray black cat looming around the front.

brots-de-vi-restaurant-in-girona-1-of-1 — Dinner at Brots de Vi (“Break out the wine,” Catalan translation)

deanna-looking-at-drew-and-danelle-girona-1-of-1

drew-and-danelle-girona-1-of-1

debbie-taking-photo-of-elly-in-girona-1-of-1

Ok, Back to the Christmas Day Family Hike

Back to the hike to the top of the ridge… The hike is all about creating long lasting memories over generations. The challenge of course is having the older generation keeping up with the younger, more athletic one. Here, the climb starts to get steeper and more challenging. Soon the walk turned into a climb and a hard physical challenge. Danelle would drop back to encourage Deanna up through the challenge.

christmas-day-hike-winding-up-the-switchbacks-1-of-1 — The trail got narrower and narrower with steep climbs and switch backs, to the point, just after this photo, we begin climbing up a cliff

Surprising…or maybe not so surprisingly… the google map calculation about how long it would take us to reach the top was greatly over estimated. Or maybe because our kids are in such great shape…whatever the reason, the we got to the top, with time to spare!

mike-and-elly-on-road-1-of-1 — Mike and Elly owning the road!

mike-elly-drew-and-danelle-on-road-1-of-1 — These are our kids leading the way!

christmas-hike-danelle-and-drew-2-on-mountain-1-of-1 — Drew and Danelle at the edge of the cliff

christmas-hike-mike-elly-on-mountain-1-of-1 — As a good friend, Joerg, would later point out…Mike and Elly are pointing to Adelaide, Australia, where they will be in less than a week’s time!

christmas-hike-danelle-and-drew-3-on-mountain-1-of-1 — Drew and Danelle enjoying the view from the top of the world!

christmas-hike-lunch-on-mountain-1-of-1 — Picnic at Sant Marti Scalm El Far…we made it.

Wrapping Up the Traditional Christmas Day Family Hike

Looking back at the challenge…We did it! There was no way we should have been able to reach the top, but we did it. The tradition goes on, maybe bigger than ever The car ride was more quiet on the 65km drive back to Girona – for me, thinking about some of the challenging climbs, some of the stunning views, some of the great laughs, and some of the family moments that will remain memories for ever.

christmas-hike-finishing-the-hike-1-of-1

Tag: Girona

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