An early spring morning walk to the Girona Market, with Elly, Deanna, and Shawn Clark –if only a camera could capture the astonishing scent of wisteria! (Missing from the photo: Mike was at the Gran Premio Miguel Indurain, and Karol-Ann was at the Volta Limburg Classic)
Expectancy. It’s an interesting word.
Six days before leaving for Spain, our financial advisor came to our house to discuss retirement plans. She handed me a document with, among many financial graphs, projections, and illustrations, a colourful chart that was meant–I think–to demonstrate two things: that she was doing a great job in growing our savings (which she most certainly was) and that my wife and I should be financially comfortable until…well…until the far right side of the chart. One line of the chart followed our “Projected Assets.” This indicated that we should not be eating cat food in our retirement unless for some reason, dementia or other dramatic change in food preferences, we chose to. Another line showed “Forecasted Spending” which ran more or less parallel but below the first. That would be a good thing. Below those two lines was a chronological listing of years from 2017 to 2046, the last being labeled two things: 1.“Projected Life Expectancy,” and 2. “90 years”—that’s where the page ends and presumably I do too. I recalled the old adage that nobody wants to live until that age, 90…until of course they are 89. I then spotted another expectancy on the chart: the “Average Male Expectancy” date, something that seemed more likely. If I were lucky enough to get to this point, I would have, let’s say, just 22 more Christmases left. But then, I reminded myself there is an unmarked but another possible expectancy, a more genetic one, whereby if I lived as long as my dad, I would have just 3 more of those family gatherings.
These “expectancies” are not bothersome in of themselves, because as Groucho Marx observed, “Getting older is no problem. You just have to live long enough.” But they did startle me in the way that, say, I have experienced on a long hike before, where I stumbled upon a posted trail map, with the “YOU ARE HERE” marker, and realized I’m suddenly close to the end (Wow, I must have really been enjoying the hike to forget how much ground I’ve covered!). The good news with the trail map example, versus the retirement one, when I passed the finish line, if someone said, “He’s in a better place now,” they’d be referring to an Irish pub.
I prefer other expectancies–the non-statistical ones. The ones that stumble into my awareness. I’m thinking about the warm and hopeful ones, of a new baby coming into the world, or of the coming of first light after a long dark night. Or, from a cold Ottawa winter perspective, the pleasant expectancy of a spring about to arrive.
Spring in Girona
Morning sun finding tulips at the fountain in Plaça de Catalunya, Girona.
A wave of welcome from Mike as we strolled along the Roman Wall.
As Mike suggested, “When in Girona, you need to think ‘Cottage Mindset.’ Rush nothing.” Mike and Elly’s balcony was a good spot for cottage chilling–a place where we shared many conversations over morning coffee and afternoon wine, enjoying the views of the backyard, the Roman Wall, and the mountains, as well as the most blood-red sunsets I have ever seen.
Morning on the balcony, having a café con leche and appreciating the coming of spring, below the Roman Wall.An afternoon exploration of the Wall, while wondering about its centuries of ghosts. Girona is the city of sieges, with 25 sieges against these walls…with 7 losses where the city was overwhelmed by military force, starvation and/or disease/plague.
The Catedral de Girona dominating the old city and the Riu Onyar–always worth us pausing on the bridge when returning from a café con leche in the Plaça de la Independència.
Early spring foliage along the Rambla.A favourite meeting place, outside the Federal CaféJoerg and Ann, with wine-assisted smiles!Mike and Elly looking like movie stars!
The whole crew together: Ann, Deanna, Mike, Shawn, Karol-Ann, and Joerg at Federal Café for dinnerTwo views from Joerg and Ann’s AirBnB apartment in the old city
Laundry day in Girona.
Like kids! Joerg and Ann stop to share gelato in the Plaça del la Independència, enjoying what Mike calls the best gelato in Girona.Morning sun burning through fog along the Riu Onyar.Elly and Shawn joining us at Brots de Vi (Break Out the Wine) restaurant in Girona.
Exploring Basque Country–via the Vuelta al Pais Vasco
A Bike Race is a Good Way to See a lot of Territory!
Where the Retirement Graph had me in the Autumn of life, or even early Winter (depending on which expectancy is chosen), when it comes to being a fan of the UCI World Tour, I’m a spring baby! There’s a lot to learn.
And to watch a World Tour stage race live, like the Vuelta Ciclista al Pais Vasco, you have to plan…a lot. The races typically cover large geographical areas, requiring long car drives and hotel hopping. You have to plan out the details of each day, accounting for road closures, crowds, parking, If it is a key race, you have to arrive hours ahead of time to find a good viewing spot.
And sometimes serendipity is key–one of the days, we found an Irish pub with Europort TV race coverage, just a 100 metres from the finish line. We saw the race develop on tv until the last 10km and ran to the finish line to see it end!
San Sebastian–as a newbie spectator of World Pro Tour, I am overwhelmed at times by the complexity and richness of the sport: who-is-who and what team is doing what to the other 20+ teams. While picking out a favourite rider is not too difficult when everyone is sitting still at the start, Deanna and I are still slowly getting better at spotting that one rider in a peloton moving at 60+kph, among all the other 180+ skinny guys in helmets and sunglasses and in mind boggling arrays of colours.
Mike’s teammate, Alex Howes, in the King of the Mountain Jersey, with Mike waving at me at a neutral start–in San Sebastian
Son and mom at the pre-race sign-in. Mike got us VIP tickets for most of the stages…an extra special way to have access to the riders and special treats like cervaza (beer) at the start and finish of the races.
The Race Day Routine
The stage races typically last 4 to 5 hours each day, starting around 1p.m., which means our mornings and evenings were free to explore the towns and countryside, the food and the wine.
Pamplona. In terms of Life Expectancy, running with the bulls could have an impact (pun intended) based on all the photos we saw in the shops lining the route. The photos typically feature runners with a horn up their buts, being rammed through doors or into walls, or tossed on trajectories into Low Earth Orbit!
Apologies. As an English graduate, I had to visit the Café Iruña (Basque for Pamplona), which is featured in Hemingways “The Sun Also Rises,” and was a hangout for him.While this statue in Vitoria-Gasteiz commemorates the defeat of the Napolean’s army–it’s part of long history of war and continuous invasions.A quick stop behind a farmer’s truck, to soak up the experience–long drives on narrow roads, through field after field of Rioja, winding through mountains and valleys.
Views from the finish line in Elciego: on one side there is the modern–the Bodegas Marques de Riscal hotel architected by a Canadian (Frank Gehry).Views from the finish line in Elciego: on another side there is the old–the Iglesia de San Andres.Views from the finish line in Elciego: on yet another side (looking up), there’s the crazy–beer happy fans celebrating from the top of the VIP bus, among all the thousands of bike-crazy fans.
Day Trips from Girona: To Figueres to the Dali Museum
You can take photos in the Dali Museum–of all the impressive, the bizarre, the obscene and the popular works. Figuerres is worth the 40 minute train ride.
Chilling in Figueres
Car Trip to Hike Along the Mediterranean
From the top of our hike, looking back at the beach where we started.
Lots of little surprises in tide pools–in amazingly clear water.
Stopping in Cologne: Amazing Winery
A big highlight of the trip was visiting Mas Molla winery in Cologne. Here the wine maker, Monstie, is in an intensely technical wine discussion with Joerg. The winery has been in her family since 1338! The barrels, bottles, dust, spiders, dampness, odours…all seem from a different century!
Round-Trip Bike Ride: Girona to Llagostera
Llagostera, our lunch destination on our 46km bike ride.
Poppies & wild flowers lining the bike path.
Along the bike path, I stopped along this Canola field and reflected proudly that I have either hiked or cycled up to the peaks of the biggest mountains in the immediate background, while enjoying the patchwork of the canola crops and green fields and other spring colours.
Albert, an hospitable Catalan gentleman, not only demonstrated a local tradition, drinking wine from a porron, he bought one for Joerg and I to embarrass ourselves with!Joerg begins to master the technique of the porron, though as much wine ended up all ourselves as did in our mouths!
Picnic with Mike & Elly’s Friends: to Watch the Sunset
Good wine and friends, while looking over Girona.
Long after the sun had set, and while we were on our walk to our restaurant,”El Cul Del Mon” (Catalan for “The Boonies”), we saw a dark and sinister shape lurking in a field about 50 metres away. Big black dog? Bear cub? It was a wild boar–as confirmed by this enhancement photo!
Last Evening in Girona
So, expectancy is an interesting word. And to me, Life Expectancy is more about this: the anticipation of good things that happen when you mix family and good friends, in interesting places!
Setting out on our Traditional Christmas Day Family Hike: we had hoped to reach Sant Marti Sacalm El Far, a sanctuary perched on the top front-right curve of this ridge, some 1100+m above sea level.
“There’s no way we’ll get to the top!” We were standing by the car, looking at a ridge that was way too far away, with way too little time to get there.
We decided to give it a try and see how far we could get before turning around when we ran out of time. It was a disappointing thought. We had driven so long to get here.
Mind you, a big part of the reason were short of time, was the road up to this trailhead. It was fun for me to drive – a narrow, twisting challenge of switchback on switchback – but a nightmare for all five passengers in the car. They threatened to puke on me if I didn’t slow down!
This was the start of the 2016 version of our Traditional Christmas Day Family Hike, the Spain edition! Maybe we couldn’t get to the top, but the tradition would go on…there would be some challenging climbs, some stunning views, some great laughs, and some family moments that will remain memories for ever.
A Christmas Day of Familiar and Foreign Traditions
Mike and Elly went out of their way to plan the hike and a lot of other familiar traditions to make a special Christmas time for everyone. Mike and Elly bought a live Christmas Tree (with a 25kgms bulb of earth on its bottom) that they had to carry a long way through narrow streets and up steps to get into their apartment, and they decorated it. Mike bought a large screen TV so our family could watch Christmas movies on Christmas Eve (at the very least it was a commendable excuse). They even arranged for us to go together to order a turkey at a neighborhood butcher…and they arranged so many other things. I felt pretty much at home in a very different world…by the way, in Girona, Santa doesn’t bring the presents (no chimneys!). It’s the job of ‘Tió de Nadal’ (Christmas log). It’s a log with a nose and eyes, and it’s propped up on one side by two legs. If you feed it by leaving food in front of its face, it brings you presents on Christmas. Not very believable but…let’s just say there were presents for me on Christmas.
Christmas time in Girona – big in spirit!
Shopping and iPhoning along the Rambla in late eveningGirona’s Eiffel Bridge in Christmas form
Biking: Although Not Technically a Christmas Tradition…
In 2015, the weather was so warm in Ottawa that Mike and I were cycling on Christmas Eve! In 2014, we were in Maui and we cycled. There is a pattern. And Girona is perfect for riding.
On the 4 hour loop to the Mediterranean, Rueben and I stopped in Tossa de Mar for cafe and bravasRiding along the Mediterranean…steep cliffs, scary descents, punishing climbs, beautiful vistasThe castle at Tossa de Mar. A few days after the bike ride, I drove Deanna, Danelle, and Drew back to this place where we had wine and tapas on the terrace of the castle-converted-hotel-restaurant, soaking up a warm Mediterranean breeze.
Mike designed this ride for me…105km distance with 1520m of climbing (some at 18-20% gradient!), taking in some incredible vistas from the cliffs over the Mediterranean, and unimaginable silence in the mountains, and pastoral vistas over fields sometimes speckled with sheep, goats, donkeys, or cattle.
Christmas Time Around Girona – Magical
Sun setting while we’re in the mountainsCastellfollit de la Roca is a medieval village rising out of a basalt craig 50 meters high! It’s tiny, just a km along the craig.
Absorbing Christmas Season in Girona – so much to see
For the Game of Thrones fans, Girona appears in the series in Season Six – it is just that old, that unique, that beautiful. Check out: Game of Thrones Video
While walking the ancient Roman Wall around old Girona, I took this photo of the apartment where Mike and Elly now live: it includes the third-floor balcony that overlooks a beautiful walled courtyard.On an early evening stroll to the RamblaA friend we found while walking in a local parkChristmas shoppers in the many narrow streets
The greeter, just outside of Espresso Mafia…a good place for a café con lecheDanelle’s scarf on a chair…she’s gone inside to buy daddy some Christmas Cheer!Looking back over a misty morning over Girona, on our hike up to the Castell de MontjuicEnjoying the reflections while walking home along the Riu Onyar on a late afternoon
Christmas Time with Friends and Family, Good Food and Good Spanish Wine!
No need for a car…a relaxed walk to dinner. Dinner in Girona is a late event by North American Standards. Many restaurants don’t open until 8:30 with 10pm seemingly an average time to dine out.Dining at El Cul del Mon (“The Boonies,” Catalan translation)
El Cul del Mon. Night of Deanna and my 34th anniversary. We showed up twenty minutes early for out 8:30 reservation and thought there was a big problem. On this Sunday evening, well after dark, it looked like the place had gone out of business. Or maybe it was closed for the day. No sign of life except for a stray black cat looming around the front.
Dinner at Brots de Vi (“Break out the wine,” Catalan translation)
Ok, Back to the Christmas Day Family Hike
Back to the hike to the top of the ridge… The hike is all about creating long lasting memories over generations. The challenge of course is having the older generation keeping up with the younger, more athletic one. Here, the climb starts to get steeper and more challenging. Soon the walk turned into a climb and a hard physical challenge. Danelle would drop back to encourage Deanna up through the challenge.
The trail got narrower and narrower with steep climbs and switch backs, to the point, just after this photo, we begin climbing up a cliff
Surprising…or maybe not so surprisingly… the google map calculation about how long it would take us to reach the top was greatly over estimated. Or maybe because our kids are in such great shape…whatever the reason, the we got to the top, with time to spare!
Mike and Elly owning the road!These are our kids leading the way!Drew and Danelle at the edge of the cliffAs a good friend, Joerg, would later point out…Mike and Elly are pointing to Adelaide, Australia, where they will be in less than a week’s time!Drew and Danelle enjoying the view from the top of the world!Picnic at Sant Marti Scalm El Far…we made it.
Wrapping Up the Traditional Christmas Day Family Hike
Looking back at the challenge…We did it! There was no way we should have been able to reach the top, but we did it. The tradition goes on, maybe bigger than ever The car ride was more quiet on the 65km drive back to Girona – for me, thinking about some of the challenging climbs, some of the stunning views, some of the great laughs, and some of the family moments that will remain memories for ever.
“I must confess a shameful secret: I love Chicago best in the cold.” Erik Larson, The Devil in the White City.
I’m only a few chapters into Larson’s book, but far enough in that I was looking forward to our visit with Danelle and Drew in Chicago with a slightly more interesting, more dark perspective into the city’s past.
Enjoying a short break in Evanston, while walking along the lakeshore.Saturday morning, we walked along the shores of Lake Michigan, in Evanston. This is a view looking at Chicago, tiny in the background, where we would spend Saturday night.Walking downtown Chicago, I was the true country boy in the city, always looking up.
Only days after the election, I had to marvel that this building is small compared to the towering con job that convinced so many average Americans that the entitled billionaire named on the tower had anything in common with them, let alone giving a shit about them. There’s roadblocks and hundreds of armored police officers for blocks around the building, or to comment on it using a Trump tweet, “Sad.”
Danelle & Drew took us to Cindy’s, a rooftop bar/restaurant in the Chicago Athletic Association Hotel, where we enjoyed drinks, a fire, some fantastic views and more good conversation.
View from Cindy’s
View from Cindy’s as evening wore on.View of Adler Planetarium from Cindy’s.Along our walk to dinner…a long walk to the bellyQ.So I wouldn’t necessary say, “I love Chicago best in the cold,” but I love Chicago and I love our reason for making the trip …
Last Saturday we spent some time at the newly reopened National War Memorial.
Maybe we all have extra cause for reflection this year as Remembrance Day approaches, given the disturbing rise of the alt-right in the US and Europe, the horrors in Syria, the provocations of Russia…not to mention threats from North Korea or Iran or who knows where else. But from my small vantage point, I am feeling much more grateful than ever for all those who have sacrificed to make our world better.
Over my 24 years of living in Ottawa, the image of Remembrance Day for me is the National War Memorial, with the ancient vets waiting in wheelchairs and with walkers, resolute against the cold of November, as the bugle sounds the Last Post, below drab skies and falling rain, sometimes snow.
The Memorial has been hidden for the last seven months as part of a major restoration project. Most mornings I ride my bike past the site on my way to work. I have missed it. Before the restoration, I enjoyed seeing the visitors who always seemed to be there no matter what time of day, taking photos or perhaps reflecting on the statues or on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The site is clearly important to people and, for me, made even more important, more solemn, more immediate, by the killing of Corporal Nathan Cirillo in October 2014.
When we read last Saturday that the Memorial had reopened Friday, we decided we should go there right away, like visiting an old friend who has been away too long.
On the way to the Memorial, we paused to view a couple walking under the trees along the Rideau Canal (view from the pedestrian bridge). In my 24 years of living in Ottawa, I can’t remember when the leaves were still on trees as Remembrance Day approaches.The Peace Tower – a symbolic link between the National War Memorial and War Museum. Viewed from the bridge over the Canal by the Chateau Laurier,.Over 24 years, I have visited the Memorial many times and pass by it most mornings on my way to work. After the restoration, it was good to take a new, fresh look at it.The larger than life figures, their elevated position, create a sense of movement…emotion..Though I will be out of town this Friday, I will still think of this symbol of Remembrance, as I have extra cause to reflect and be thankful this year on the eleventh hour…
Crossing the bridge over the Onyar River on our way to the Rambla in Girona would become an early evening ritual for us.
“Dad, you have to come stay with us in Girona.” That’s all it took really. Decision made. A dad’s love for his son doesn’t need any more encouragement than that. In a flash, Deanna and I were here…in Spain. Not as tourists but as guests…thank you Mike and Elly!
Everything closes down at 2pm and re-opens at 4pm. By early evening, the streets start to fill up with families, lovers, shoppers, and …just about anybody else.
We loved being able to walk just about everywhere, through the narrow streets in the old city, bustling with people. Buying the food we needed for the day, and nothing more. There’s a nice sense of community and family. We loved it.
Rush hour! Fold in your side-view mirrors if you’re driving in old Girona.
The Rambla. The leaves were just starting to bud. We enjoyed cafes and tapas and people watching–if only Sparks Street Ottawa could be like this!
Looking back on a stroll across the stone bridge over the Onyar River.
The view from the other side of the river, just after sunset.When you’re told Girona is a cycling mecca, you can believe it! Deanna and Elly at La Fabrica, our morning go-to place for Café con leche.It was great as a dad to see how well Mike and Elly have fit into the community. Above are three of our favorite (as Elly calls themselves) “Cycling Wives!”
For the first week, we followed Mike’s race, the Volta a Catalunya, and saw flashes of him and 198 some other riders, and lots of the Catalonia region.
On the Queen Stage of the Volta, the race began near this city, Puigcerda, and would finish in the snow-capped mountains that look way too far away!
And this is the view on the snow-capped mountain. Mike had a bad crash earlier, which we didn’t know until much later. The damage to his forearm and hip were on his right side (opposite of where Deanna and I were cheering).
Two Cycling Fans in Barcelona!
I’m amazed at the massive resources required to run a World Tour Pro Cycling team. Teams have rock-star looking buses with captain chairs and personal entertainment systems for each rider (in this case, the bus has an external large screen TV for fans to watch), some teams have tractor trailers for the equipment and workshops for the mechanics, and all teams have four or five support cars to follow the racers…and teams will have this same crazy amount of resources at its two or three other races across Europe! A far cry from just a few years ago when all the support vehicles for Mike were… Elly’s Mini Cooper.
Besides the day we watched the final stage of the Volta in Barcelona, we only spent a day in the city. We had seen a documentary about the architect, Antoni Gaudi. On our walk to his famous church, we stumbled across another of his buildings, the Casa Batlo. It is…well…Gaudi of course!
This is the Gaudi Sagrada Familia! Started in 1882 and it might be finished in 2026 or 2028–I work for the federal government and even that seems a long time!
The amazing thing for us was the use of natural light, here the late afternoon sun created a magical sense.
Bike Geek Photo. After a death-defying (for me) descent down hundreds (at least for me it seemed like it) of switch-backs, I took this iPhone snap of my very sweet loaner bike that World Pro Tour rider, Kristoffer Skjerping, raced on last year, with the Mediterranean in the background. Can it get any sweeter? Yes, World TTT Canadian champion, Karol-Ann Canuel, rode with me for an hour of my loop to the Mediterranean. Yes, she no doubt rode a lot slower for the old office worker that I am, but riding with such a wonderful athlete/person is a treasured experience!Riding with my boy is the best. Maybe the sweetest of memories on these rides. Even getting a flat is not a bad thing. Warm sun. Mediterranean in the background. He did make me suffer. There’s a climb called the “Cobra.” 970 metres of climbing over 13kms…I think he was trying to get his inheritance early….
We loved the time we spent on the Rambla on our last night in Barcelona. It was a Saturday night and tens of thousands of people were milling about, the place was full of energy!
Dinner at Bots de Vi, Girona. Thank you Mike and Elly for sharing Girona with us and for blessing us with rich new experiences.